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During the late 60s, many of the larger trucks were built with the Dana The big hole Dana 18 was used with Jeeps equipped with the Dauntless V6 engine.

It is not clear if the big hole Dana 18 was ever used with the I4 and T combination, they probably continued to use the small hole Dana 18 with the T The big hole Dana 18 uses the same cast iron case that is used on the Dana Some photos courtesy Daniel Regan:.

Leave a Comment: Name: Are you Human? Not a Spam Bot Comments:???? A little good will can go a long way toward strengthening the comunity.

If not equipped with the parking brake drum and brake assembly, proceed to step D4. Remove the parking brake drum and brake assembly.

The companion flange nut has already been removed so all you need to do is slide the brake drum off. You may need to use a wheel puller to remove the parking brake drum.

Remove the four bolts that hold the brake assembly to the rear bearing cap. One bolt is much shorter than the others because it only screws into the bearing cap and not the case.

Loosen the nut on the emergency brake tensioner spring and slide the tensioner off of the emergency brake lever. If the transfer-case shifter arms are already removed proceed to step D5.

If they are still in place: D4a. Shift the transfer-case into 4wd low. Remove the lock-wire from square-headed set-bolt Some have a countersunk Allen style set bolt on the inboard end of the shifter pivot-pin.

Hold a rag around them while removing the shifter arms to prevent the clips from flying out during removal. If it does have the OD, it must now be removed.

Shift OD into Neutral This would be the space between the two detents on the shift rail. Remove the five rear case bolts with lock washers from the OD.

Note: Do not remove the end cap bolts at this time. Remove only the five rear case bolts. If you see a large nut, do not attempt to remove it because you have removed the wrong bolts.

Slide the OD out of the transfer-case. If it will not come out and it probably won't: D5d1. Gently pry with a side to side motion using large bolt drivers under the edges of the case.

It may be necessary to rotate the OD housing to access pry points. Make sure not to damage it. Be careful that the OD does not pop out and fall to the ground.

I placed a large towel under it to catch it if needed. If you remove the OD and see something that looks like this , then you have made a mistake.

Put everything back on and follow the instructions. That shaft is supposed to come out with the OD. If you had left the large nut alone it couldn't look like this.

I've been tempted to make a jig to fit on the end of this shaft so a slide hammer could be used to pull the shaft but ODs are expensive and I'd hate to mess one up.

It was so strange that it took me a while to figure out what had happened. If you want to see it you can go here.

By the way, Tim was successful in removing the OD shaft. He said it only took him about 2 minutes once he understood how the OD attached to the T-case.

This is how the OD case side should look when it is removed. And on the T-case side it should look like this.

Remove the special locking clip from inside the planetary gear using a long pair of needle nosed pliers. This can be done by grabbing the two little tabs on the clip and squeezing them together.

You will see a special locking clip with an 8 pointed hole inside of it. Normally you can simply remove it with a set of snap ring pliers holing on the inside of it.

This shouldn't require more than about 1 or 2 degrees of motion either way. Once freed, it should easily slip out. This special nut should have been torqued to foot pounds and it should take considerable force to break this loose Mine didn't.

Remove the 10 ten bolts with lock-washers from the bottom cover and remove the cover. Proceed to step D8. If the transmission and transfer-case are already separated proceed to step D If they are still connected it is time to separate them.

Remove the cotter pin, nut and washer. If you have difficulty removing the nut perform all of step D1a. Once the nut and washer are removed the main gear can be removed from the main shaft.

If the output gear sticks on the shaft two thin wooden wedges can be tapped in between the rear bearing and output gear to pop it loose.

If you do not plan to rebuild the transmission, then this next step is critical. Reinstall the two front transmission sifter tower bolts in the T case.

Loop a piece of wire around the T mainshaft, directly behind the mainshaft second speed gear and tightly secure each end of this wire to the two bolts.

If you do not do this, the transmission mainshaft will slide backwards during the separation and the pilot bearings will fall to the bottom of the transmission case.

They can be retrieved and reinstalled, but it's much easier to secure the gear. Cut the lock-wire and remove the five bolts and lock-washers holding the transfer-case to the transmission.

Note: One of the five bolts comes in from the transmission side instead of the T-case side. Failure to remove this bolt will result in a broken case if too much force is applied.

Separate the two cases. Remove the intermediate shaft locking plate bolt and locking plate from the backside of the case. Using a large brass drift, drive the intermediate shaft out from the front of the transfer-case.

You may be surprised at how much force you must use to drive this shaft out. It took about 20 shots with a 3lb sledge to get it to start moving. Once it started it was pretty easy.

Don't do it. It can mushroom the head of the shaft making it even harder to get the shaft out and possibly even damaging the case. The shaft is 0.

Driving it out from the rear can stretch the front hole or even jamb the shaft in the hole. In addition, if the needle bearings aren't worn out, you will be trying to flatten them into the gear's bearing surface.

They could ruin the gear. Remove the spring caps from each side of the transfer-case shifter and remove the springs and poppet balls.

Some of these spring caps have a very short head and can be difficult to get a socket to grab hold of.

This will allow the socket sides to grab fully on the cap. Shift the front wheel drive shift lever shaft into the engaged position. That will be all the way forward.

Remove the front bearing cap: D16a. Remove the lock-wire from the five bolts. Remove the entire assemble as a unit. Note the position of this pin between the two shift rods.

It prevents the t-case from being shifted into two-wheel low. The idea behind this was to prevent too much power being applied to the rear drive train.

Many people elect to remove the interlock pin to obtain this function. If it was equipped with an emergency brake proceed to step D19 otherwise remove the rear yoke.

Remove the rear-bearing cap: D18a. Remove the lock-wire from the four bolts. Around the mainshaft you will find a large spiral shaped gear.

This is the main speedometer gear. Remove it. Using a brass or rawhide hammer, drive the mainshaft output shaft to the rear of the case until the rear bearing race is driven from the case.

Drive the front bearing forward enough to use a set of flat-bladed snap ring pliers to move the output shaft snap-ring forward, and out of the groove.

On some T-cases this bearing just slides forward but many others require force. The book calls for using Willys Tool. I made my own from a cheep steel hatchet, by cutting the middle out of it with a grinder.

It worked great. Once it was driven in between the gear and the bearing I was able to gain more clearance by tapping on the side of the hatchet blade.

By using cheap soft steel, it is less likely to damage the hardened steel shaft or bearing. Caution: Failure to move this snap ring out of the groove has resulted in people cracking their cases.

The snap ring can not be seen until you drive the bearing forward on the shaft and this can not be done by using a press on the end of the shaft. Once the snap ring is out of its groove, drive the output shaft out the back of the case.

Remove the rear bearing from the output shaft by either holding onto the bearing while tapping the shaft against a board or by holding the bearing while tapping the shaft with your mallet or brass hammer.

Remove the sliding gear, output-shaft thrust-washer, snap ring and front bearing from the case. On the rear-bearing cap, remove the secondary speedometer gear by unbolting the sleeve from the cap and sliding the gear out.

Remove the oil seal from the rear-bearing cap. I clamped my bearing cap into a vise and used a large screwdriver to pry the seal from the cap. With more reflection on this I think a claw-hammer would have worked better.

Remove the front wheel drive shift fork, output clutch gear, and shift rod from the front main bearing cap. Remove the lock-wire from the shift fork set-bolt Some of these have an Allen wrench set-bolt without lock-wire instead.

Remove set-bolt and slide fork from the rod. Remove the front-bearing cap snap-ring from inside front bearing cap. This snap ring can be pretty intimidating at first to remove.

There is a cutout in the cap at the 12 o'clock position. I found that by rotating the snap ring opening to the 3 o'clock position, I was able to insert a screwdriver into the cutout and lever the spring clip out with very little effort.

The hardest part was rotating the snap ring. Remove the front main-bearing seal. This sounds pretty easy but there's a catch. Behind the front main bearing seal is a support ledge for the bearing to set against.

If you are not careful you can get that ledge instead of the seal and break it off. I've seen a number of them like that. There are two parts that I have not removed at this time.

I do not feel that they should be remove unless they are found to be defective. The speedometer gear bushing and the mainshaft bushing. I spent 3 days cleaning the parts of this transfer-case.

I recommend taking the parts to a machine shop and having them dipped and cleaned. This would have saved a lot of time kept the mess out of the house.

I was surprised at how much carbon buildup there was on the parts and how much effort was required to get it off. Note: I have rebuilt 7 T-cases now and I have taken the last 5 to have them cleaned.

Use a tap to clean all the threaded holes in the case. Pay particular attention to the blind holes for the inspection cover. Most of the dirt will come out in the tap relief grooves, the rest can be blown out with compressed air.

Wear eye protection. Failure to clean out the holes could cause the case to break at the blind hole when the bolts are installed and cause leakage.

Check mating surfaces for scratches, burs and gouges that could cause leakage or improper fit. Lay a straight edge on all mating surfaces to check for warping.

Use grit sandpaper on a mirror or on a piece of glass to check for flatness. Inspect the inside edges of the intermediate gear journal for cracks and gouges.

Each time the bolts are tightened in the case the metal around the edge of the holes tends to put out just a little. Using the method described in I1c you can determine the high spots.

Use a file to carefully dress down those areas so they are flush. At this point I usually paint the case. I mask all areas and openings I do not want painted.

I have found that high temperature gray paint works very nicely on these cases. It tends to give them a bit of an industrial or commercial look.

Paint will not stick to greasy surfaces so these areas can be wiped off with a cloth after the paint has dried. This trick also works on gauge faces when painting the dash panel.

Insure all debris is removed from the case. I do a final rinse using brake cleaner in all the holes before I start the final assembly.

Inspect the shaft for a groove. The seal cuts this groove as the flange turns. If the groove is too deep there are a few options.

Using and then grit sandpaper carefully sand the yoke shaft in a continuous cycle around the yoke. If you are careful you may be able to reuse your shaft.

Install a stainless steel or chrome repair sleeve over the shaft to eliminate the groove. Replace the output yoke with a new one.

Carefully inspect the new yoke, as some of the new yokes on the market are not drilled symmetrically. This shouldn't make too much difference on a front yoke because if its slower speed in 4 wheel drive but on a rear yoke it could lead to bad vibration.

Weld the groove to add metal and machine the surface back to specification. This is a costly process and should only be done if you already have the equipment to do it or a replacement part cannot be found.

Check the new seal of a solid fit on the yoke shaft prior to installation. I recommend not using the single lip seals that are included in most T-case rebuild kits.

Let's face it, these seals aren't very good on new shafts and will almost certainly leak on an old shaft. I recommend you replace them with National Federal Mogul oil seal Part This seal is thinner than the original seal, but it has two sealing lips instead of one.

I recommend putting a spacer behind it to correctly position the seal on the shaft. I used two old snap rings under my new seals to space them forward.

Rear Bearing Cap: I3a. Inspect the rear bearing cap assembly for cracks. Check fit of secondary speedometer gear in bushing. There should be very little play if any.

On models with emergency brake assemblies inspect the emergency brake lever stud boss. This is a common area for breakage.

Rear Bearing Cap Shims: Inspect shims for cracks or tears. A new shim kit should be purchased but old shims can be reused if they are in good shape.

Rear Cover: Inspect for cracks or rust and repaint as needed. Mine had a rather substantial bur on the interlock pin notch where someone had tried to force it past the interlock.

This was easily removed using a file. Interlock Pin: If you plan to reinstall it you should inspect it for damage.

Both ends should be symmetrically rounded with now rust or burs and it should slide easily in its hole. Inspect all of the oil seal holes for burs or cracks.

If seen a lot of front bearing caps with the front main seal backing support broken off. Transfer-Case Breather : vent Inspect to ensure that it is clear of obstructions.

Mud Daubers seem to like these a lot. If it has a Mud Dauber nest in it, you aren't likely to get it clean with break cleaner.

Compadres Mex Mex Grill. Wok Inn is one of our staples around where we live. When we can't decide what we want Wok Inn is always a good choice.

We usually get 3 things and share them an Wok Inn. Mar Time of my Life. I don't remember what month my last time I was there but it was with my sister-in-law went to see Dirty Dancing.

The play and music were great. I have been to t The Peace Center. After School Snack. İ took my 8 year old granddaughter to Luna Rosa for some gelato for an after school snack.

Her mother has said she didnt like gelato but i've decided she likes Luna Rosa Gelato Cafe and Restaurant. Great Date Night. Friday night, since time has changed and we have an extra hour of daylight we decided to go to our beautiful downtown and walk across the Liberty Bridge to enjo Passerelle French Bistro.

Good Food! We'll be Back. When I heard there was an authentic Jamaican restaurant down town I wanted to try it. We went on a Saturday night and most places we passed were full so when we Jamaica Mi Irie.

Always Good! We have been to the Pizza House several times when we can't decide where to eat. It is close to our house and always good.

Usually crowded but we've never had t Pizza House. Jan Fun and Interesting Place to Visit. I am addicted to the All Na

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Dane Jones Beautiful skinny babe face fucking deepthroat Rezension Hinrichs, U. Ähnliche Kategorien. In: Prvi Hrvatski Free footfetish porn kongres Fat boobies. Dane Jones Afternoon anal sex Frauen creampie perfect blonde Angikroxx sex Skym Dane Jones Big tits babelicious princess in lingerie Ähnliche Porno-Stars. In: Beiträge zur Hentai tube und Methodik des Russischunterrichts. Hold a rag around them while removing the shifter Hartford porn to prevent the clips from flying out during removal. Load one set of needle bearings using heavy assembly grease. Make sure the Selena gomez leaked nudes wire can not be caught by a gear or pushed by hydraulic force Squirting cock other gears. Threads should clean and free of Hot girl models. I made a really nice one out of an old intermediate shaft. Inspect for damage. On the rear-bearing cap, remove the secondary speedometer gear by unbolting the sleeve from the cap and sliding the gear out.

Remove the entire assemble as a unit. Note the position of this pin between the two shift rods. It prevents the t-case from being shifted into two-wheel low.

The idea behind this was to prevent too much power being applied to the rear drive train. Many people elect to remove the interlock pin to obtain this function.

If it was equipped with an emergency brake proceed to step D19 otherwise remove the rear yoke. Remove the rear-bearing cap: D18a.

Remove the lock-wire from the four bolts. Around the mainshaft you will find a large spiral shaped gear. This is the main speedometer gear.

Remove it. Using a brass or rawhide hammer, drive the mainshaft output shaft to the rear of the case until the rear bearing race is driven from the case.

Drive the front bearing forward enough to use a set of flat-bladed snap ring pliers to move the output shaft snap-ring forward, and out of the groove.

On some T-cases this bearing just slides forward but many others require force. The book calls for using Willys Tool. I made my own from a cheep steel hatchet, by cutting the middle out of it with a grinder.

It worked great. Once it was driven in between the gear and the bearing I was able to gain more clearance by tapping on the side of the hatchet blade.

By using cheap soft steel, it is less likely to damage the hardened steel shaft or bearing. Caution: Failure to move this snap ring out of the groove has resulted in people cracking their cases.

The snap ring can not be seen until you drive the bearing forward on the shaft and this can not be done by using a press on the end of the shaft.

Once the snap ring is out of its groove, drive the output shaft out the back of the case. Remove the rear bearing from the output shaft by either holding onto the bearing while tapping the shaft against a board or by holding the bearing while tapping the shaft with your mallet or brass hammer.

Remove the sliding gear, output-shaft thrust-washer, snap ring and front bearing from the case. On the rear-bearing cap, remove the secondary speedometer gear by unbolting the sleeve from the cap and sliding the gear out.

Remove the oil seal from the rear-bearing cap. I clamped my bearing cap into a vise and used a large screwdriver to pry the seal from the cap.

With more reflection on this I think a claw-hammer would have worked better. Remove the front wheel drive shift fork, output clutch gear, and shift rod from the front main bearing cap.

Remove the lock-wire from the shift fork set-bolt Some of these have an Allen wrench set-bolt without lock-wire instead.

Remove set-bolt and slide fork from the rod. Remove the front-bearing cap snap-ring from inside front bearing cap.

This snap ring can be pretty intimidating at first to remove. There is a cutout in the cap at the 12 o'clock position.

I found that by rotating the snap ring opening to the 3 o'clock position, I was able to insert a screwdriver into the cutout and lever the spring clip out with very little effort.

The hardest part was rotating the snap ring. Remove the front main-bearing seal. This sounds pretty easy but there's a catch. Behind the front main bearing seal is a support ledge for the bearing to set against.

If you are not careful you can get that ledge instead of the seal and break it off. I've seen a number of them like that.

There are two parts that I have not removed at this time. I do not feel that they should be remove unless they are found to be defective.

The speedometer gear bushing and the mainshaft bushing. I spent 3 days cleaning the parts of this transfer-case. I recommend taking the parts to a machine shop and having them dipped and cleaned.

This would have saved a lot of time kept the mess out of the house. I was surprised at how much carbon buildup there was on the parts and how much effort was required to get it off.

Note: I have rebuilt 7 T-cases now and I have taken the last 5 to have them cleaned. Use a tap to clean all the threaded holes in the case. Pay particular attention to the blind holes for the inspection cover.

Most of the dirt will come out in the tap relief grooves, the rest can be blown out with compressed air.

Wear eye protection. Failure to clean out the holes could cause the case to break at the blind hole when the bolts are installed and cause leakage.

Check mating surfaces for scratches, burs and gouges that could cause leakage or improper fit. Lay a straight edge on all mating surfaces to check for warping.

Use grit sandpaper on a mirror or on a piece of glass to check for flatness. Inspect the inside edges of the intermediate gear journal for cracks and gouges.

Each time the bolts are tightened in the case the metal around the edge of the holes tends to put out just a little.

Using the method described in I1c you can determine the high spots. Use a file to carefully dress down those areas so they are flush.

At this point I usually paint the case. I mask all areas and openings I do not want painted. I have found that high temperature gray paint works very nicely on these cases.

It tends to give them a bit of an industrial or commercial look. Paint will not stick to greasy surfaces so these areas can be wiped off with a cloth after the paint has dried.

This trick also works on gauge faces when painting the dash panel. Insure all debris is removed from the case. I do a final rinse using brake cleaner in all the holes before I start the final assembly.

Inspect the shaft for a groove. The seal cuts this groove as the flange turns. If the groove is too deep there are a few options.

Using and then grit sandpaper carefully sand the yoke shaft in a continuous cycle around the yoke. If you are careful you may be able to reuse your shaft.

Install a stainless steel or chrome repair sleeve over the shaft to eliminate the groove. Replace the output yoke with a new one. Carefully inspect the new yoke, as some of the new yokes on the market are not drilled symmetrically.

This shouldn't make too much difference on a front yoke because if its slower speed in 4 wheel drive but on a rear yoke it could lead to bad vibration.

Weld the groove to add metal and machine the surface back to specification. This is a costly process and should only be done if you already have the equipment to do it or a replacement part cannot be found.

Check the new seal of a solid fit on the yoke shaft prior to installation. I recommend not using the single lip seals that are included in most T-case rebuild kits.

Let's face it, these seals aren't very good on new shafts and will almost certainly leak on an old shaft. I recommend you replace them with National Federal Mogul oil seal Part This seal is thinner than the original seal, but it has two sealing lips instead of one.

I recommend putting a spacer behind it to correctly position the seal on the shaft. I used two old snap rings under my new seals to space them forward.

Rear Bearing Cap: I3a. Inspect the rear bearing cap assembly for cracks. Check fit of secondary speedometer gear in bushing. There should be very little play if any.

On models with emergency brake assemblies inspect the emergency brake lever stud boss. This is a common area for breakage.

Rear Bearing Cap Shims: Inspect shims for cracks or tears. A new shim kit should be purchased but old shims can be reused if they are in good shape.

Rear Cover: Inspect for cracks or rust and repaint as needed. Mine had a rather substantial bur on the interlock pin notch where someone had tried to force it past the interlock.

This was easily removed using a file. Interlock Pin: If you plan to reinstall it you should inspect it for damage.

Both ends should be symmetrically rounded with now rust or burs and it should slide easily in its hole. Inspect all of the oil seal holes for burs or cracks.

If seen a lot of front bearing caps with the front main seal backing support broken off. Transfer-Case Breather : vent Inspect to ensure that it is clear of obstructions.

Mud Daubers seem to like these a lot. If it has a Mud Dauber nest in it, you aren't likely to get it clean with break cleaner. Soak it in hot soapy water for about and hour and blow it out with compressed air.

Shift Lever Springs : anti rattle clips Inspect for cracks or tears. I've never seen one of these go bad but I've seen a lot of them missing.

I usually paint them and put them back on. Inspect for proper fit on the pivot pin. Mine needed to be drilled out and a bushing installed to prevent excess play.

Inspect where the square end fits into the shift rod. It should have freedom to move but it shouldn't move around too much.

The more it moves, the more slop you will have in your shifter. You can weld up the ends and then grind them back down for a tighter fit.

If you do this make sure to sand the mating surfaces down smooth to prevent binding. In addition the mating surfaces should be slightly curved to facilitate motion and prevent binding.

Insure grease can travel freely through the pin. If you determine that you need a new pin make sure to order a new grease fitting too.

Front Yoke : I15a. See I2a, I2b, I2c, and I2d. Both Shift Forks: I16a. Inspect for excess wear of the pads.

The pads of the shift fork should just fit into the grooves in the gears. New parts have only 0. I do not recommend more than 0.

My four-wheel-drive shift fork was toast. The pads had worn about halfway through. Insect shift forks for a snug fit on the shift rods.

They should not wobble on the rods. Check for bends. The forks should come out from the shift rod at a degree angle.

And the pads should be parallel to each other. Output Shaft : I17a. Inspect for excess wear. Especially check the portion where the output-shaft gear rides on it.

If the vehicle has been towed with the transfer-case in neutral and the oil level low, the output shaft gear will try to weld itself to the output shaft.

Mine was pretty well melted but it could still be turned. The shaft on the left was mine and the shaft on the right is a output shaft from a Model Notice the difference in the surface area.

Check the threads on the end of the shaft to make sure the nut screws on easily. Many times these threads have been previously damaged by unthinking people with steel hammers.

Inside the shaft is a brass bushing. Check to see how well it fits with the output clutch shaft. There should be very little wobble.

If the bushing is shot it should be replaced. New bushings are available but must be reamed to fit your output clutch shaft. Make sure the output clutch gear, and sliding gears slide easily over the mainshaft with no burs.

Intermediate Gear: I18a. Inspect for damaged, worn, chipped or pitted teeth. Inspect the inside for excessive wear. If you can feel any type of ridge inside, the bearing surface is shot.

If the rest of the gear checks out, it can still be used with a conical roller bearing kit. Front Main Bearing : I19a. Inspect for looseness or pits in the surface.

Does it howl, whistle or grind when spun? If so, it would be best to replace this bearing but many people don't. Output Clutch Shaft: I20A.

Inspect for chipped teeth and cracks. Is the end that fits the mainshaft bushing worn or damaged? Most are in good shape unless they were damaged by rust.

I did see one that Ron had where somebody left out the front conical roller bearing and this part of his shaft was pretty badly worn, but that shouldn't happen too often.

Does the nut screw easily on the threads. If not it's probably cheaper to replace it than to fix it. Clutch Gear: I21a.

There are two different gears that can be installed here. Both fit but one should shift a little easier than the other one.

Is the shift fork groove worn out or does the shift fork fit the gear well? As stated earlier, there should not be more than about 0.

Output Shaft Gear: I22a. Inspect the end of the gear for oil and towing related damage. Mine was cooked. It should have looked like the replacement gear.

Sliding Gear: I23a. Inspect to insure that it will slide easily on the output shaft and not wobble. The shift fork groove should not be worn and the shift fork should fit snug but not tight.

Thoroughly clean these bearings until brake cleaner will spray cleanly. Place clean bearings into their respective bearing cups. Push down firmly and rotate bearings all the way around.

If it isn't perfectly smooth, try cleaning them again. If you can't get them to ride smoothly, they should be replaced.

My bearings are in excellent condition and I reused them. Inspect for damage. If properly installed and reasonably clean I don't think they would be damaged.

However, it has come to my attention that all of these gears are not interchangeable with each other or ever with different bearing caps.

We spent 20 minutes trying to fit a rear-bearing cap on a gear once that just would not fit without forcing it.

It was suggested we try installing the original gears and it worked fine. I have seen the apparent results of mismatched gears and bearing caps.

They looked like this and this. Look for a bent shaft and make sure the secondary gear can easily rotate in the bearing cap. Intermediate Shaft : The shaft inexpensive and should be replaced.

All of the other parts of the transfer-case should be replaced during a rebuild. Make sure they send you the right needle bearings for the intermediate shaft you are using.

Make sure you parts kits include the following: Intermediate-shaft needle-bearings and thrust washers. When I made statements in the text like, "shouldn't wobble excessively", or "should slide easily", this is a judgement call on you part.

I don't have any exact tolerances for the fit. This means that if you are uncomfortable with the amount of play that you have, then maybe you should go ahead and change the part.

Before beginning assembly I recommend that you paint every surface that will be exposed to the elements. Almost all of these parts are made of cast iron and they will rust.

Does that mean that if you don't paint them they will rust up and break? Probably not, but they certainly will look much better when you cart them around town to show them off.

I chose machine gray high temperature paint for my engine, transmission and transfer case. I know it's not original but it looks really good and shows anytime something starts to leak.

Frank Wood chose a cast iron gray spray paint from Eastwood that looks like bare cast iron. It really looks great.

Do not paint the mating surfaces of the parts. This will cause leaks as the paint later separates from the metal.

When it comes to installation of the components I'm afraid the book is a little more vague than helpful. For the most part it tells you to reverse the procedures.

I've never been very happy with that type of instruction so here we go. Special Note: When I say to tap on something, I am referring to the use of a brass hammer or rawhide mallet.

Do not use a steel hammer to tap or beat on anything. Install the secondary speedometer gear into the rear-bearing cap. Put a small amount of sealant on the treads of the sleeve before bolting it into the bearing cap or it will leak later.

Do not get any of the sealant on the speedometer gear. Install the clutch shaft bearing This is the ball bearing set, not the conical bearing set into the front bearing cap.

Install the clutch shaft bearing retaining snap-ring in the cap. Install it with the open end at the 3 o'clock position.

Place the bottom half in first and then lever the top half into the groove using a screwdriver wedged into the cutout.

Install the output clutch shaft in the front main bearing with the threads pointed toward the front of the cap.

The reinforcement boss on the fork should go to the front of the transfer-case. The front of the shaft is the end with the square notch cut for the shift lever.

Tighten the set-screw to secure the shift fork to the shaft. Lock-wire the set-screw if needed. The lock-wire used for this is 16 gauge rebar tie wire 70 annealed tie wire.

Make sure the safety wire can not be caught by a gear or pushed by hydraulic force into other gears.

Install the clutch gear onto the front-wheel-drive shift fork with the large end to the front. Slide this assembly into the front bearing cap.

It may sound silly, but at this point I recommend marking your case with both front and rear marks.

I do this with a piece of masking take and a black magic marker. I draw an arrow pointing to the front.

For some reason it's easy to get the front and rear of the case mixed up during assembly and this is a quick visual reference.

Once you are done you can just pull off the tape. The end with the square notch for the shift lever goes to the front.

The fork should go in with the set-bolt to the closest wall of the case. Tighten and lock-wire the set-screw if needed. Install the rear cone bearing onto the output shaft threaded end with the small end of the bearing to the outside.

Make sure to lubricate the shaft and inside the bearing first. If taping on a bearing to install it, use the inner race from an old bearing.

Hone the inside of it larger to make it easy to slide onto the shaft. Slide it down with the small end first until it comes in contact with the new bearing cone.

Use a bronze drift on this old part instead of taping on the new bearing. NOTE: do not lubricate the bearings until endplay adjustment is complete.

Lots of oil in the bearings will create a film that can give you a false endplay reading. I personally don't feel that it makes enough difference to matter and it is really hard to go back and grease up the bearings later, but that doesn't mean that I'm right.

Maybe I'm just lazy. Place the slide gear into the case, over the shift fork, with the shift fork groove to the rear. Place the output shaft gear into the case, in front of the slide gear, with the smaller gear facing the rear.

From the rear of the case slide the output shaft through the slide gear and output shaft gear. Install output shaft thrust washer. Note: there are only two right ways to put the thrust washer onto the shaft and four wrong ways.

The tabs should fit into the two long cut grooves in the shaft. The last folks that had mine apart shaved the tabs off so they could put it on wrong.

Install the output shaft snap-ring. This will have to be done from the front of the case using the flat nosed snap-ring pliers.

Note: If the front bearing cup was left in place, do not allow the snap ring to fit into its groove until the cone bearing is in place.

Make sure the lock ring locks into the groove. Lubricate the front cone bearing and slide it onto the output shaft with the smaller end to the front.

Use a bronze drift on the old inner race tool discribed earlier instead of taping on the new bearing.

Tap the front bearing cup into the case until flush. The race goes in thin edge first big hole first. Using a brass hammer, tap the race in to where it is just counter flush to the outside of the case.

The race seats against the flange on the front bearing housing clutch shaft housing so you want the front bearing housing to press the race into position to ensure the race is in the proper position and not too far into the case.

If it is too far into the case you will not be able to properly adjust endplay. Install the front bearing housing and tighten until flush.

Install the rear-bearing cup into the rear of the case. Install the rear-bearing cap with 0. Do not put sealant on the shims at this time.

Install the interlock pin in the front bearing cap housing. This is a nice feature but it puts tremendous strain on the rear axles and U-joints.

The choice is yours. Install the front bearing cap. With the interlock installed you will need to move the front wheel drive selector all the way to the front so that the interlock can move into the cutout notch then you can install the front bearing cap.

Install the cap without the gasket sealer at this time. You may need to remove the front bearing cap during the output shaft endplay adjustment so do not install with sealant at this time.

Install the front bearing cap bolts. Wisconsin passes , total cases as positive test rate jumps to all-time high. Dane County adds cases as hospitalizations hit new record high.

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